Ten Things All Surfers Know
1) Crossing hot sand with bare feet, aim to step in the deepest footprints – it’s cooler there. And of course, the white lines on the crosswalk.
2) Surfers can ‘see’ the ocean floor just by looking at how the waves break. They can spot the deep and shallow spots, and find the channel that makes the paddle out much easier.
3) Hollywood NEVER gets it right.
4) Surfers can tell if you’re a surfer just by the way you carry your board.
5) Surfers have a talent for discretion whenever they change in a crowded parking lot.
6) When the waves are good, sewage spills and shark warning signs are meaningless.
7) Shortboards suck for learning.
8) Rip currents can be as dangerous as they are helpful.
9) There’s always more paddling than surfing.
10) Afternoons are for kooks and barbecues.